The founder and head chef at Chishuru, Adejoké Bakare, has been bestowed with the Michelin Star award, becoming its first black female recipient in the UK, further affirming the rise of Nigerian and West African cuisine in London.
Chishuru, renowned for its contemporary West African dishes, originated as a pop-up in September 2020 after Bakare’s triumph in a Brixton Village competition. It subsequently transitioned through various locations in London before establishing a permanent residence in Fitzrovia in September 2023. Bakare, described her accomplishment as “quite surreal.” “It hasn’t sunk in yet,” she said in an interview with The Guardian UK. “Until this morning I was just focused on enjoying the accolade itself, which I’m hugely honored by. But seeing reactions on social media today, I’m starting to feel a weight of responsibility on my shoulders too, it’s lovely.” She added.
Adejoké Bakare’s dishes include sinasir (fermented rice cake), moi moi (bean cake) and ekoki (corn cake), becoming a “West African movement” in the UK.
“We’re [at] the forefront of West African food and there’s still much more to do so we focus on that … and just build and grow that way. In many ways being an independent restaurateur and chef is incredibly liberating. We make our own rules, we answer to no one, we do our own thing. As a black female chef, I’m not totally sure I could have done it any other way.” Bakare said.
Bakare added that her cooking can’t be tied to being ‘Nigerian food’ as they’re diverse, coming from her diverse parentage. “You can’t describe our food as ‘Nigerian’ though, because there’s no one food tradition … much of the culinary history predates the lines on a map. My parents are Yoruba and Igbo, and I grew up in Hausa territory, so my food is informed by all three of those culinary styles.” She says.
Her passion for food and culinary arts ignited during her early years when she started amassing cookbooks at the age of 11. However, she received encouragement to follow more conventional career paths. Consequently, she pursued studies in biological sciences at a university in Kaduna. Upon relocating to the UK, she ventured into diverse sectors, encompassing roles in the care and property management industries.
“When I won, it was almost like a sign to go: OK, you can now do those things that you want to do. There is an avenue for me to get on doing food more professionally,” she told The Guardian UK
Michelin Star is given to restaurants for exceptional culinary expertise. Five fundamental criteria are considered; excellence of the ingredients, the balance of flavors, the skillful application of techniques, the chef’s distinct personality reflected in their cuisine, and equally significant, the consistency exhibited across the entire menu and over time.